2003 - 2004 FORD SVT 4.6L Supercharged Cobra (aka: Terminator)
FAQ and other compiled information
1.1. Disclaimer and limitation of liability
1.4. Notification of Copyright
1.6. What’s New in this version?
2.1.1. Where do I find a 2003 Cobra?
2.1.4. What about the SVT Anniversary Edition?
2.1.5. When will I get my SVTOA membership kit?
2.1.6. When will I get my Certificate?
2.1.7. Where do I get the build documentation?
2.1.8. How many miles should a “new” Cobra have?
2.1.9. What things should I check for when buying a 2003 Cobra?
2.1.10. What colors are available?
2.1.11. What options are available?
2.1.12. Does the stereo play MP3’s?
2.1.13. Should I remove the yellow stickers?
2.1.14. What are some good web sites for 2003 Cobra information?
2.1.15. What kind of gas mileage should I expect?
2.1.16. How do you clean the suede on the seats?
2.2.2. What do 2003 Cobra’s typically dyno at stock?
2.2.3. What are the differences in the “runs”?
2.2.4. What are the differences between the 2003 Cobra and the 2001 Cobra?
2.2.5. What are the differences between the Cobra’s engine and the Lightning’s engine?
2.2.6. How do I properly break the car in?
2.2.7. What are the specifications of the 2003 Cobra engine?
2.2.8. How does the supercharger work?
2.2.9. What transmission does the Cobra use?
2.2.10. What are the specifications for the Cobra’s IRS?
2.2.11. What are the specifications of the Cobra’s suspension components?
2.2.12. What are the specifications of the Cobra’s brakes?
2.2.13. What fluids should I use in my Cobra?
2.2.13.3. Transmission Lubricant
2.2.14. How does the rev limiter work?
2.2.15. Will “bouncing” off of the limiter hurt the engine?
3.1. What are the common “bolt-on” mods?
3.2. What does a Cobra with “XYZ” mods dyno at?
3.3. Do mods void the warranty?
3.4. Is a chip needed with a pulley swap?
3.5. What is the difference between upper and lower blower pulleys?
3.6. How much boost will a Cobra make with “XYZ” pulley?
3.7. What size belt should I use with a pulley mod?
3.8. What is the difference between dyno tuning and road tuning?
3.9. Are “mail order” chips safe?
3.10. What spark plugs are best with a pulley mod?
3.11. What exhausts are available for the 2003 Cobra?
3.11.1.1.2. Quarter Mile Performance (QMP)
3.11.3.1.4. Installing Longtubes
3.11.3.2.1. Bassani “Mid Length”
3.12. Should I get a “catted” X pipe?
3.13. Do you lose torque with a 3” exhaust?
3.15. What are the “free” mods?
3.15.4.4. The McMaster rubber mod
3.15.7. Removing the “Pony” on the grill
3.16. What do the various throttle bodies available for the Cobra flow?
3.17. What size wheels and tires will fit in the rear without rubbing/scraping?
3.18. How do I get rid of wheel hop?
3.19. Is anyone using nitrous with a 2003 Cobra?
3.20. Can the T-56 be replaced with an automatic?
3.21. Can a live axle be installed in a 2003 Cobra?
3.22. Are there any aftermarket superchargers for the 2003 Cobra?
3.23. Are you over spinning the Eaton blower with a smaller pulley?
3.24. How much boost can the Cobra’s internals take?
3.25. How do I check for detonation?
3.26. Does running higher octane gas help?
3.27. Are there any intercooler upgrades?
3.28. Are there any handling upgrades?
3.29. Are there any braking upgrades?
3.30. How do I remove the governor?
3.31. How do I improve the Cobra’s aerodynamics?
3.32. How do I get the traction control to stay off?
3.33. What are the difference in dynos?
3.34. What correction factor should I use for my dynos?
3.35. How do I change the RPM the stock shift light engages at?
3.36. If I raise the rev limiter with a chip, what is the maximum “safe” limit?
3.37. What are the limits of the Cobra’s stock fuel system?
3.38. Why does my boost fluctuate with the pulley mod?
3.39. What wheels are available for the Cobra?
3.40. What drag radials are best?
3.41. What is the difference between DRs and slicks?
3.42. Are there any 160 degree thermostats available for the Cobra?
3.43. Are there any “beyond bolt-on” mods available for the Cobra?
3.44. What gauges match the factory gauges?
3.45. Are there any gauge pods available?
3.46. Is an Air/Fuel gauge useful?
3.47. What does a pyrometer do?
3.48. How do I install an aftermarket tachometer or shift light?
3.49. What clutch components should be upgraded to handle more HP?
3.50. Where can I find a list of ECU powertrain diagnostic codes?
4.1. What RPM is best to launch at?
4.2. What should I do if I have wheel hop?
4.3. What “tricks” will get me better times?
4.4. What do stock Cobra’s run in the 1/4 and 1/8 mile?
4.7. What is a “good” 60’ time?
4.9. Why do I keep missing gears?
4.10. What is the best 1/4-mile time and trap speed so far for a modded 2003 Cobra?
5. Glitches and Quality Issues
5.21. Pop in the front/rear of the car while turning
5.22. Double sided tape showing from under spoiler
CLIFF NOTES:
Rule # 1: By reading this document, you agree to hold me harmless for any
screw-ups, including those brought about by your own stupidity.
Rule # 2: If you are thinking about suing, refer to rule # 1.
BEGIN LEGAL MUMBO-JUMBO:
The information provided in this FAQ is correct to the best of my knowledge,
however I make no warranty, express or implied, regarding the use of, results
of, or liability created from, application of this data. This information is
presented in good faith, however I assume no liability whatsoever in regards to
anything contained herein. If you don’t agree with this policy, stop reading
now.
This is version 2.0, the BETA release of this document. For the latest version, please visit www.alfageek.com/cobra.htm or www.alfageek.com/03faq.htm.
The primary author of this document is Brian Hill, known as
NetworkingGuru on most forums. Contributors are many and varied, and are listed
in each section. Special thanks goes to 03DOHC for his help in finding much of
this information. If you have contributed something of importance, but have not
been credited, please accept my apologies and contact me at bshill@bellsouth.net
for inclusion.
Copyright 2002 by Brian Hill, except for contributions,
which are the copyright of the respective authors. All references to product
names and trademarks are the property of their respective owners. If you wish to
have your name, contributions, links to your site, or the name of your
organization or product removed from this document, please inform me and I will
do so.
This document may be distributed freely, as long as it is unaltered in any way,
but may not be sold or altered in any form without my express, written consent.
If you wish to link this document from your website, feel free to do so, but
please send me an e-mail and let me know.
For errors, omissions, or additions, please contact me at bshill@bellsouth.net
The following changes have been made in this version: Entire FAQ converted to HTML, Hyperlinked index and (hopefully) all web addresses hyperlinked. Sections modified: 1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 2.1.9, 2.1.14, 2.2.2, 2.2.3, 2.2.4, 2.2.13.4, 3.7, 3.10, 3.14, 3.15.6, 3.19, 3.22, 3.24, 3.38, 4.1, 4.7, 4.10
Sections added: 1.6, 2.1.17, 3.15.4.4, 3.50
2003 Cobra’s are only available new from Ford SVT dealers.
You can get a list of SVT dealers in you area from the following site:
http://www.fordvehicles.com/dealerships/locatedealer/
Ensure you choose “SVT product” in the bottom drop-down menu.
MSRP of the 2003 Cobra is $37,545 for the convertible, and $33,300 for the Coupe, both without including tax/title/tag, destination charges, and gas-guzzler taxes ($1,000). Invoice on the cars is $34,555 for the convertible, and $30,693 for the Coupe. Dealer holdback is 3% of the MSRP. With X plan pricing (for Ford employees, family members, and friends), you may be able to get the car for close to the invoice price.
Ford plans to make approximately 12,000 2003 Cobras.
The anniversary edition is mechanically the same as the standard 2003 Cobra. It consists of cosmetic enhancements including custom wheels, seats, trim, and badging. Pricing has not been set yet, but it is expected to be on sale mid 2004.
You should receive your membership kit 6-8 weeks after
purchasing your car. If you do not receive your kit on time, contact the SVTOA
here: http://www.svtoa.com/
Certificates are not printed and sent until the end of the model run.
Build documentation has been found in various places on the
vehicle, typically wedged into gaps in the vehicle bodywork. A common location
is under the rear bumper.
In general, less that 10. Most come with less than 7 miles from the factory. Less than 4 miles, however, is very uncommon. If you car has more miles than this, check the window sticker for a “QA” entry. If you have this entry, it means that your vehicle was taken by SVT QA engineers to check for defects. This is done at random, and the dealer has no control over it. The car should not have been harmed or “beat on” in those miles. In any case, mileage of 50 or more is indicative of a heavily “test driven” car, and negotiations for a discount should be undertaken.
Mosconiac posted this check list: 09-06-2002 01:55 PM on the Svtperformance.com 2003 Cobra forum. Thanks to Mosconiac for the info. Modified by Mike_B_SVT, 1/22/03.
2003 Mustang Cobra Check List, for new Cobra Buyers or Owners:
1. Inform dealer to NOT install /perform any of the following:
- a. Dealer tagging / stickers / emblems, etc.
- b. Front license plate mount / bracket
- c. Window etching
- d. Undercoating
- e. polish, wax or protectants
2. Be Sure to Ask Dealer For:
- a. Complimentary touchup paint.
- b. ALL stickers, tags, plastic, build documents, etc.
- c. All Dealer repair invoices (if any).
3. No one is allowed to "test drive" before you arrive.
- a. Check mileage: If above about 15miles SVT will affix a sticker to the window specifying total miles when leaving factory.
4. Bring with you when you go to pick up your car:
- a. Flashlight
- b. Tire Pressure Gauge
- c. Dust cloth / diaper (just in case you need it)
5. Check entire body / exterior for defects. Check for dents / visible damage from transport:
- a. Dents / Door Dings.
- b. Front spoiler- may be damaged during off-loading.
- c. Paint surface, is it smooth or rough? Scratches / chips? Paint over-spray or orange peel.
- d. Check exterior trim for proper alignment / fit.
- e. Make sure they don't install the front license plate bracket (optional).
- f. Check the fog lights for moisture; best to check right after the dealer washes it
- g. Inspect the rear spoiler; the 3M tape in known to creep out, if this is the case it'll need to be adjusted or trimmed.
- h. Check for catalytic converter damage: Rap on cats and mufflers looking for rattles.
6. Check Wheels / Tires:
- a. Check wheels for damage from transport.
- b. Check that all lug nuts are tight.
- c. Ensure all locking lug nuts are in place (one on each wheel).
-- 1) Ensure you have the puzzle lug in the console / trunk.
- d. Check rear tires for evidence of burnouts (missing rubber nubs). If nubs are missing on rear tires:
-- 1) Check rear wheel wells for tire dust / rubber from burnouts.
-- 2) Check front tires for missing nubs (indicating they are worn off from driving, not necessarily burnouts).
-- 3) Check mileage: If above about 15miles, SVT will affix a sticker to the window specifying total miles when leaving factory.
- e. Check the air pressure in the Tires.
7. Check for system leaks / drips:
- a. Valve covers / Engine
- b. Rear end / Differential
- c. Transmission
- d. Power Steering / ABS
- e. Radiator
8. Check entire interior for defects:
- a. Check steering wheel and seats for scratches / cuts from removing factory plastic.
- b. Check power window operation: Some windows stick in the down position and squeak when rolling up.
- c. Check power top operation.
- d. Fraying / damage to convertible top.
- e. Check dead pedal (by clutch) for looseness.
- f. Check all interior trim for fit and finish / proper alignment.
- g. Check the plastic doorsill molding and ensure they are lined up properly.
- h. Check center console trim: Several of us have found that clips were missing or broken; push on the trim around the A/C vents-- it shouldn't move.
- i. Check your instrument lighting for proper operation.
- j. Verify the cargo net is in the trunk.
- k. Verify convertible Toneau Cover is in trunk.
- l. Check for rubbing of passenger seat against passenger door.
9. Check hood release handle for sloppy operation.
10. Check the Engine for the following:
- a. Check oil level.
- b. Check windshield washing fluid level.
- c. Check Radiator Coolant level.
- d. Check upper radiator hose for rubbing against the crank pulley. May be tie wrapped to the fan post, or have a “webbed” cover.
11. Test Drive the Vehicle and check for the following:
- a. Do the doors lock on startup?
- b. Check for rough idle: Idle should be about 750rpm
- c. Listen for ticking valve train (TSB 3521). Stand next to the Drivers’ front wheel and listen with the hood up.
- d. Vibration at 80+ mph?
- e. Check alignment. Does the Vehicle pull to either side?
- f. Vibration during braking? Pulls to either side during braking? Brakes OK?
- g. Misfire / Stumbling at moderate RPMs during test drive (could be evidence of plugged cats)?
- h. Stalling? Stalls on deceleration while turning?
- i. Clunk noise from the suspension while turning?
- j. Driveline Clunk during acceleration after coasting?
- k. Belt Slipping / squealing?
- l. Does the clutch have any play, rattle, or a loose feeling?
- m. Listen for rubbing of passenger seat against passenger door while driving.
- n. Check for "skunk" smell after test drive (more evidence of plugged cats).
Oxford White Clearcoat
Ebony Clearcoat
Torch Red Clearcoat (early availability only)
Red Fire Clearcoat Metallic (late availability)
Sonic Blue Clearcoat
Satin Silver Clearcoat Metallic (early availability only)
Silver Metallic (late availability)
Mineral Grey Clearcoat Metallic (early availability only)
Dark Shadow Grey Metallic (late availability)
Zinc Yellow Clearcoat
Convertible Top- Black or Parchment (With Red Fire, Torch Red, Black or Oxford
White Exteriors Only)
Interior- Dark Charcoal with choice of Medium Parchment or Medium Graphite
accents
The only options for the 2003 Cobra’s are Spoiler Delete
and Chrome Wheels. The Mach 1000 Stereo system is not being offered at this
time.
No. The 2003 Cobra comes standard with the base Mach 460
Stereo.
No. The yellow warning stickers are adhered to the cloth very strongly, and will most likely leave lasting residue if you remove them.
The best focused 03 Cobra sites around are
svtperformance.com and modularfords.com. However, the 2003 Cobra shares many
components with earlier mustangs, so many general mustang sites can be helpful
as well.
On the interstate, around 20 MPG (17-22) should be the norm. In the city, it depends on how much you like the loud pedal. General mileage for normal driving is around 14-18 MPG, but if you drive it hard, you may see as little as 6-8 MPG.
As far as I have heard, the material is actually Alcantara
(a brand of Italian Suede). See this web site for information on maintaining it:
http://www.alcantara.it/english/automotive/automotive.htm
This list has been compiled to help promote dealers that have given good service or provided for an exceptional buying experience in order to help Cobra owners locate dealers that will treat them fairly during the sales process and provide fair service. Most of this information was pulled from countless hours looking through such posts on svtperformance.com. Thanks to all of the MANY contributors to this list.
Walnut Creek Ford
Frontier Ford
Galpin Ford - North Hills
Lombard Ford - Winsted
Sunstate Ford - Orlando
Greenway Ford
Sebring Ford
Halifax Ford
Courtesy Ford - Sanford
Earl Tindol Ford - Gastonia
Beau Townsend Ford - Vandalia
Williams Ford
Doug Stanley Ford - Desoto
Bankston Ford
Toliver Ford - Sweetwater
Tommy Vaughn Ford - Houston
You can find these here:
http://66.96.130.106/archives/2002/02/2003cobra/index2.shtml
On average, 2003 Cobra’s are dynoing between 350 and 370 stock at the rear wheels using SAE correction. The lowest stock dyno I have seen thus far is in the 340’s and the highest is in the 390’s.
2003 Cobra’s have two current runs. First run cars seem to have a bit more variation in dyno numbers and quality, come stock with AGSF12FM1 spark plugs, and have the older QUD2 EEC program, identified by a white sticker on the passenger side door, near the locking mechanism. Second run cars seem to have leveled out a bit, use AGSF22FM1 spark plugs, and have the newer YDH0 or YDH1 program. The differences between the ECU programs are undetermined as of yet.
The 2003 Cobra has several mechanical and visual differences from the 2001 Cobra. Mechanically, the 2003’s have a 112 c.i. Eaton supercharger, intercooler, intercooler reservoir, slightly different heads and cams, 8.5:1 compression, forged pistons and Manley H-beam rods, an Iron block, Tremec T-56 transmission, 3.55:1 rear gears, and stronger half-shafts. Visually, the 03’s have a different spoiler, front fascia/splitter, hood, side skirts, redesigned 17”x9” wheels, redesigned suede seating, and slightly different interior trim.
The Lightning has a 5.4 liter SOHC motor with powdered metal rods, forged pistons and crank. The 2003 Cobra is a 4.6 DOHC engine with forged pistons, crank, and rods. Both engines use the same Eaton M-112 blower with a bypass valve and a factory intercooler.
There are several schools of thought on this. Some say
drive it as you normally would, as the tolerances of modern machining processes
are stringent enough to reduce any worry about break in. Others say to go easy
on the car for the first 2000 miles. The Cobra owner’s manual does not list a
preferred break in process, leading many to believe that its importance is
overstated. Currently, common consensus is to vary the RPMs a lot during the
first 500 miles, while driving at different load levels (1/4 throttle vs. WOT,
for instance). At 500 miles, change the oil and filter, and change again at 3000
miles. The following site has more detailed information concerning the break in
process: http://members.cox.net/synthetic-motor-oil/converting%20to%20amsoil.htm
See 2.2.1
The following page has a great explanation of the operation
of a roots supercharger:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t425.html
If this link gives you a “server too busy” message, try this link:
http://216.239.51.100/search?q=cache:8TsWWgxPn04C:www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t425.html+supercharger+faq+screw+roots+eaton&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
The 03 Cobra uses a Tremec T-56 6-Speed transmission. While this is fundamentally the same transmission used the the Viper, C5 Corvette, and F-Body (Camaro/Firebird), the torque specifications and gearing for the Cobra may be different than from these other models (our T-56 is rated to 450 Ft/Lbs of torque).
Rear Suspension- Multi-link independent system, cast iron
upper control arm, aluminum lower control arm, fixed toe-control tie rod,
aluminum spindle, gas-charged Bilstein™ monotube shock absorber, 600 lb/in (470
lb/in on convertible) coil spring, 26mm tubular stabilizer bar.
Coupe Shock Part# 2R3Z-18125-AA
Vert Shock Part# 2R3Z-18125-BA
Front Suspension- Modified MacPherson strut system with
gas-charged Bilstein™ monotube dampeners and separate 600 lb/in (500 lb/in on
convertible) spring on lower arm, 29mm tubular stabilizer bar. Coupe Strut Part#
2R3Z-18124-AA Vert Strut Part# 2R3Z-18124-BA Rear Suspension- Multi-link
independent system, cast iron upper control arm, aluminum lower control arm,
fixed toe-control tie rod, aluminum spindle, gas-charged Bilstein™ monotube
shock absorber, 600 lb/in (470 lb/in on convertible) coil spring, 26mm tubular
stabilizer bar. Coupe Shock Part# 2R3Z-18125-AA Vert Shock Part# 2R3Z-18125-BA
Front Brakes- 13.0 in. (330mm) vented Brembo™ disc, PBR™
twin-piston caliper.
Rear Brakes- 11.65 in. (296mm) vented disc, single-piston caliper. ABS-
Four-channel, four sensor system.
Based on Cobra’03’s extensive research on this subject,
here are the suggested lubricants:
”Amsoil 0w30 Series 2000, Amsoil 5w30, NEO, Motul Ester 300, and Red Line 5w30
or 5w20 (it's lubricating qualities make it a safer bet than a mineral 5w20 for
the Nervous Nancy’s out there). Lesser but still high quality are Mobil 1,
Valvoline, Pennzoil synoils. I do not think much of Syntec or Castrol
domestically - their Euro-spec oils are very good. In mineral oils, Pennzoil PZL
Turbo 10w30 is a great lube, but I believe it is either on the verge of or has
been discontinued. If you drive your car on nice days, and never at temps much
below 20 degrees F, 10w30 spec oils, esp. synoils, have even greater shear
stability than 5w30. If you are at the borderline of sunny day only use, go for
the 5w to be on the safe side.”
Note that there is no harm in using synthetic oil in the Cobra, despite what SVT
says on the subject. See the following post for more information on this
subject:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14856
Next, no “snake oil” products, such as Slick 50, Prolong, etc., should be used
in the Cobra. For information as to why, please see the following post:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19386
Finally, the following post will be helpful in understanding the additives in
engine oil:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19526
The Eaton M-112 Supercharger on the Cobra has it’s own oil,
separate from the engine oil. This oil is used to lubricate the internals in the
blower snout. To change the oil, remove the oil from the snout through the fill
plug, and then refill with approximately 8-10 ounces of Ford E9SZ-19577-A or GM
1234-5982. You can find out more info here:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19080
Again, thanks to Cobra’03’s research, the suggested
lubricants for the T-56 are:
Red Line D4 ATF; Red Line MTL
Valvoline Durablend ATF
Amsoil ATF
Mobil 1 ATF
GM Synchromesh or Quaker State Synchromesh
Stock Ford Fluid
More info can be found in the following post:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=24048
In general, it is suggested that you use the gold Ford Premium coolant.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
VC-7-A Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant - For Use In U.S. (Except For California and Oregon) - (6) U.S. 1 Gallon Containers
VC-7-B Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent - For Use Only In California and Oregon - (6) U.S. 1 Gallon Containers
A new, extended-life engine coolant, yellow-colored Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant, meeting Ford Specification WSS-M97B51-A1, service part numbers VC-7-A and VC-7-C (for use in the U.S., except California and Oregon) and VC-7-B (for use only in California and Oregon as it contains a bittering agent), has been equipped in all of the vehicles noted above. The initial-fill life for this coolant is 100,000 miles/5 years. Due to variations in water quality, the replacement interval is 50,000 miles/3 years.
Any time the addition of coolant or a coolant change-out is required, USE ONLY THE TYPE OF ENGINE COOLANT WITH WHICH THE VEHICLE WAS ORIGINALLY EQUIPPED. DO NOT MIX COOLANT TYPES. To determine the type of coolant required, check the color of coolant in the coolant reservoir of the vehicle or refer to the applicable vehicle's Owner's Guide or Workshop Manual for service parts and specification information.
Please note that Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant is not compatible with any orange-colored, extended-life engine coolants such as Motorcraft Specialty Orange Engine Coolant, service part numbers VC-2 and VC-3. DO NOT MIX COOLANT TYPES. USE ONLY THE TYPE OF COOLANT WITH WHICH THE VEHICLE WAS EQUIPPED. Failure to follow these guidelines may result in degradation of corrosion protection and potential engine damage.
You can find more info on this subject here: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16970
The intercooler takes the same type of coolant as the engine.
Currently, it seems that the stock brake fluid (listed in the owner’s manual) is sufficient for most needs.
Based on Ford documentation, it appears that the rev
limiter in the 2003 Cobra is a fuel-cutoff system.
I think the obvious answer is that it can’t be good for the
engine. However, I have yet to see any evidence that hitting the limiter on
occasion does any serious damage.
The most common bolt-ons are CAI, Exhaust, Pulley, Chip, Headers, and Drag radials. These mods are typically enough to get the Cobra to around 460 RWHP and 500 RWTQ, and should be capable of propelling a good driver to low 11’s.
This is a difficult question. Every car is slightly
different, and will respond differently to modifications. Your best advice is to
get your car chassis dynoed after each modification. A chassis dyno session
should run you around $100 for three pulls. To find a dyno in your area, visit:
http://www.dynojet.com/lauto.shtml
This is also a difficult question. The short answer is
“maybe”. The sure-fire warranty busters seem to be chip and pulley mods, but
that is debatable. According to the law, the manufacturer has to prove that the
modification caused the damage in order to deny the warranty. The following
website details the law in this regard:
http://www.alternativeauto.com/waterbox/wb-archives/warranty.html
While this sounds good in theory, the truth is that you will most likely have to
take the matter to court in order to get the law upheld. In general, it is
usually better to call around to several dealerships before you modify your car
and find one that is “mod friendly”. Since warranty repair determination is
usually left up to the individual dealer, having a good relationship with your
service writer is somewhat vital. However, if you do have warranty troubles for
damage that was not caused by the mod, and the dealer refuses to work on the
vehicle, you can attempt to fight the decision (you can also try another dealer,
but sometimes the dealer enters the denied repair into the system for all other
dealers to see). Fighting a denied claim may involve getting the regional Ford
warranty rep involved, and/or getting a good attorney involved.
Usually, yes. For an upper pulley swap, with a pulley
smaller than 3.2” you should at the very least get a dyno pull with a wideband
A/F check. In general, you want the A/F ratio to be below 12.0 (12 parts air to
1 part fuel). Some people have run as small as a 2.93 pulley without any
noticeable detonation (including the author of this document), but it is
important to have the A/F checked just in case.
The upper blower pulley attaches to the blower snout and is pressed on and must be pulled off. To swap this pulley, a specialized “pulley puller” tool is usually recommended. The stock upper pulley is 3.65”. For more boost, you reduce the size of the pulley. Smaller pulleys, however, also have less belt wrap, making belt slippage a strong possibility. Lower pulleys, on the other hand, are bolted on. Lower pulleys are the opposite of upper pulleys, and bigger pulleys provide more boost. Lower pulleys typically do not suffer from belt slip as badly either. On the other hand, the lower pulley kit consists of several pieces of supporting hardware, and can be more difficult to install. The stock lower pulley is 7 5/8”.
Stock (3.65”): 8-10 Lbs.
3.4”: 10-12 Lbs.
3.2”: 11-14 Lbs.
2.93”: 13-15 Lbs. (Boost may Fluctuate)
2.8”: 15-17 Lbs. (Boost may Fluctuate)
2 Lb.: 10-12 Lbs.
4 Lb.: 12-14 Lbs.
6 Lb.: 14-16 Lbs.
Stock (3.65”): Goodyear Gatorback Belt 4080750 - 75”
3.4”: Goodyear Gatorback Belt 4080750 - 75”
3.2”: Goodyear Gatorback Belt 4080745 - 74.5”
2.93”: Goodyear Gatorback Belt 4080740 - 74”
2.8”: Goodyear Gatorback Belt 4080735 - 73.5”
Lower 2#: 77”
Lower 4#: 78”
Lower 6#: 79”
NOTE: Some have reported less slippage with .5” smaller belts.
For custom lower and upper pulleys, consult your tuner for proper belt size.
Dyno tuning approximates driving on the road by placing a load (provided by the dyno rollers) on the vehicle. In general, this load is somewhere around 3000 Lbs., so it does not accurately simulate the actual load (street weight of a Cobra coupe is around 3900 Lbs with driver). In addition, rolling friction is not accurately simulated (the front tires are not rolling), and aerodynamic drag is not taken into account. In general, you will run a bit leaner (A/F ratio) on the road than on the dyno. However, road tuning is not employed by all tuners, and may cost more than dyno tuning.
The general consensus is that a dyno or road tune is much better. However, if you do purchase a mail-order chip, you are advised to: A) Purchase the chip from a tuner who has a great reputation for 03 Cobra chips B) Ensure the tuner burns the chip for your specific mods, and C) Dyno the car as soon after the chip install as possible to ensure correct A/F ratios.
The stock plugs on the first run cars, the AGSF12FM1 Motorcraft plugs, are pretty close to the coldest plugs I have been able to find (one heat range colder than stock). These are the plugs I would tend to recommend for a car with a smaller pulley but no chip, and are the plugs I have used for several thousand miles on my personal Cobra. NGK TR6 plugs are hotter than the 12FM1’s, however, these plugs as well as the Denso Iridium plugs seem to work well for chipped cars with a pulley. Several large discussions have been started on this subject recently, however, and you can draw your own conclusions from the info provided in the following links:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=29527&highlight=agsf12fm1
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30150&highlight=agsf12fm1
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=662
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26529&highlight=spark+plugs
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=33014&highlight=spark+plugs
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32733&highlight=spark+plugs
Dynomax has a 3” cat-back system, part # 19314, and is
available from many sources, such as Jegs (www.jegs.com)
and Summit (www.summitracing.com)
Sound bites of the Dynomax can be heard here:
http://www.getleaner.com/don/cobra.htm
Quarter Mile Performance (QMP) has a 3” full exhaust
system. You can get it here:
http://www.ls1motorsports.com/CobraPage.htm
More info on this exhaust is available here:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22566
Finally, sound bites are available here (thanks to Toofast4U):
http://www.mailliard.com/toofast4u-exhaust-021031.wav
Bassani has a 2.5” cat-back system, part # 4603C5S. This can be purchased from various exhaust shops. Sound clips, thanks to Postban, are available here: http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291458289
Magnaflow’s 2.5” cat-back system is part # 15644. Again, this part is widely available. Sound clips, thanks to KingCobra, are available here: http://www.magnaflow.com/11sound/11mustang01.htm
Flowmaster also has a 2.5” exhaust for the Cobra. The part
# is 17248, and it is available here:
http://www.rpmoutlet.com/mus03flow.htm
Currently, no sound clips are available.
QMP is the only vendor offering a 3” X-pipe at present, to my knowledge. You may contact them here: http://www.ls1motorsports.com/CobraPage.htm
Bassani’s X-pipe is available with or without high-flow cats. The part #’s are 46033 (with Cats) and 46032 (without Cats)
Magnaflow X-pipes are available with and without cats. The part #’s are 15445 (without Cats) and 93335 (with Cats).
BBK Longtubes are ceramic coated, and come fully assembled. The primaries are 1 5/8” x 30”. BBK Longtubes are supposedly 50 state EPA legal, EO #D-245-8. However, they are most likely NOT CARB legal, due to the shortened H-pipe removing two of the Cats. The part number for the BBK longtubes is 15330.
Hooker Longtubes are fully assembled, and can be purchased with or without ceramic coating. The primaries are 1 5/8” x 30”. Hooker longtubes also include 3” collectors. No EPA EO# could be found for this part. The part #’s are 6229HKR and 6229-1HKR. Hooker claims the design of these longtubes allow for removal of the bell housing (for clutch changes) without removal of the headers.
No information (other than posts on SVTperformance.com) could be found for these headers (even on JDM’s website, http://www.teamjdm.com/id140.htm). They come unassembled.
Note that the installation procedure for all longtubes is quite difficult, and may cost considerably more than the headers themselves. In addition, the longtubes may have to be loosened or removed entirely to change the clutch. Finally, longtubes require a special shortened H or X-pipe. For more information, see this thread: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14971
Bassani supposedly has mid-length headers arriving soon for the 03 Cobra. No further information is available at this time.
The closest part # I could find for the JBA headers is 1625-7JB, which are listed for 99-02 Cobra’s. They have a duplex nickel/chrome finish, and 1 5/8” primaries. These are, however, CARB approved.
It depends. If you want to remain street legal (especially if emissions testing is performed in your area), then yes, you most likely do want cats. However, if you are looking for the most performance, cat-less designs will provide less backpressure. They will also provide a louder exhaust tone. If you choose to go cat-less, you will need MIL (Multi Indicator Light) eliminators to keep the check engine light off. Note that some X-pipes (such as the QMP X-pipe), include a replaceable section to allow for cats or cat-less fitment.
On the Cobra, it seems that you do not, as the roots supercharger makes tons of low-end torque. Note that the old rumor that backpressure is needed for low-end torque is a bit of a misnomer. Based on my understanding of the physics behind the process, what actually occurs is that backpressure allows for more scavenging of exhaust gasses at low RPMs, due to a more exhaust powerful pressure wave. This can provide a slight increase in torque at low RPMs. However, at high RPMs, the increased backpressure reduces the torque and horsepower by a larger amount. Since, in drag racing, most of the run is completed at high (4000+) RPMs, this effect is actually more negative than positive.
5.0 Magazine published an article by Dr. Jamie Meyer on this very subject. You can get the full article in the May 2003 issue of 5.0. Excerpts of the article are here: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32328&highlight=cai
This mod is also known as “Postban’s Hood mod” after the individual who pioneered it. It involves either A) Removing the hood blanket entirely and cutting/bending the flaps to allow more airflow or B) cutting larger holes in the blanket, sealing the edges, and removing/bending the flaps to allow for more airflow. For detailed instructions, visit Postban’s site: http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291686253
The “Snorkel” mod involves removing the stock air silencer from the factory airbox. Dyno gains with this mod, if any, are elusive and variable. Some have reported gains of up to 10 HP, while some have actually reported a loss of HP. Regardless, it does seem to make the blower whine a bit more noticeable, which is enough for some. The mod is quick and easy, and involves simply removing the airbox, pulling the silencer off, and reinserting the airbox. Directions (from Postban) can be found here: http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291644831
While not completely free, Postban has devised another mod
for creating your own CAI airbox. It’s a bit complicated, but if you are good
with fabrication, you can save $150 or so. Directions are here:
Airbox:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4291448857
Cold-Air Ducting:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291683523
There are a couple of “free” mods for the shifter. Two of these mods involve reducing the distance of the shifter from the driver, and one involves removing the factory bushings for a more direct feel.
The first of these was pioneered by CWCobra, and involves
bending the stock shifter handle. You can find directions here:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20209&highlight=shifter+mod
The second shifter position mod, involves fabricating a steel plate to extend the reach of the shifter. Unfortunately, it seems the post was deleted, so instructions are not available. If you have them, please let me know.
The third mod involves removing the stock rubber bushings to provide a more direct, positive feel. Note that this mod may also increase noise from the shifter. This mod was developed by Tetge, and may be found here: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19302&highlight=remove+rubber+shifter+mod
The final mod was developed by Cobra’03 and involves adding a piece of rubber to the handle between the shifter and the handle, very similar to the rubber that comes with the MGW shifter. The benefit of this mod is a less noisy shifter. You can find out more info about this mod here: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16737&highlight=McMaster+Rubber+Mod
To reduce the amount of weight on the Cobra, the following
items may be removed:
1. Jack and lugwrench: 6.0lbs
2. Spare tire and hold-down: 27.0lbs
3. Stock battery: 37.5lbs
4. Rear seat: 37.0lbs
5. Rear seatbelts: 5.0lbs
6. Supercharger pulley guard: 2.0lbs
7. Differential weight: 7.5lbs
8. Mach460 head unit: 5.5lbs
9. Mach460 rear enclosure w/amps: 22.0lbs
10. Mach460 front speakers: 5.0lbs
11. Front driver seat: 62.0lbs
12. Front passenger seat: 43.0lbs
Total Deleted Weight: 262.5lbs
This mod was developed by Mjchip
In order to increase the amount of boost the stock boost
gauge will show, the needle must be carefully removed and the small tab on it
must be filed down or cut off. This mod was developed by Larryc7777.
Instructions for this mod are here:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22772&highlight=boost
Thanks to BBriBro for the link.
In addition, Ray Hilton has developed a gauge overlay for the stock boost gauge that shows increments past 10 lbs. of boost. You can find more info about the overlay here: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32223&highlight=boost+overlay
To remove the emblem on the grill, you will need a T-25
tamper-proof torx bit. Simply remove the screws, and lift up until the tab comes
loose.
This mod disables the “abuse” valve in the blower which
will bleed boost between shifts if an over boost condition is detected. This mod
will NOT provide an increase in performance with the stock pulley. There are no
less than three ways to perform this mod. You can buy a boost bypass kit from
JDM Engineering (price unknown, website does not list). Second, you can buy a
few parts and install the mod yourself for about $3. Full directions are here,
thanks to 03SoCalCobra:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20846&highlight=boost+bypass+mod
Finally, you can simply disconnect the wire to the boost dump solenoid, but this
may cause your check engine light to come on. Information on this mod can be
found here, thanks to Matt03:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18636&highlight=boost+bypass+mod
This mod enables you to use a toggle switch to cut the
high-speed fan on at will in order to aid cooling. Full directions for this mod,
thanks to Scott 96 and Purple Haze from the Corral:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15094&highlight=fan+mod
Stock (dual 56 mm): 1089 cfm
BilletFlow's T.B.: 1696 cfm
BBK Twin 65mm: 1339 cfm
PHP (Accufab): 1284 cfm
In general, it appears that up to 11” wheels (which will support a 315/35 tire without problems) will fit the rear, as long as the offset is modified. The primary area of concern is an IRS bolt that is only about 1.5” from the stock wheel/tire. Any custom wheel will need to keep this clearance. In addition, without suspension modifications, adding wider wheels may not improve grip. However, most have had good results from 315/35 Nitto tires on the stock rim. They appear to fit without issue, and provide a large improvement in traction. Be aware, however, that the Nitto tires appear to be unique in this aspect. Other brands do not appear to fit properly at the 315 size on the stock rim.
There are several options for reducing wheel hop.
Currently, Amazon Racing has an IRS kit for the Cobra designed to specifically
reduce wheel hop. They offer both a stage 1 and stage 2 kit, and both are
available here:
http://www.amazonracing.com/page2(03cobra).html
In addition, some improvement can be made by stiffening the suspension and
frame. This can be accomplished using sub-frame connectors (weld on are best, as
there is no “bolt walk”) and improved IRS bushings. Steeda products for both of
these are available here:
http://www.steeda.com/
Yes, Nitrous Pete (fitting name) is running a shot on his Cobra, and has made up to 788 RWHP on the stock Eaton using his. In addition, HavEight, a common forum contributor, is known to run a small shot of nitrous. Nitrous is a fairly new addition to the 03 Cobra’s, and not much info is available yet, but due to the cooling ability of a proper nitrous setup, strong gains should be possible.
Yes, Nitrous Pete is using a 4r70w Automatic currently. Not much is known about the difficulty of the swap, but the improvement in consistency may be worth the swap for dedicated racers. Pete’s 60’ time with this tranny in his 10.99 (no nitrous) run was 1.5. You can get more info about this run here: http://www.superstallions.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1870
Yes, this has been done as well. The swap doesn’t seem to be extremely difficult, but the only swaps I am aware of were performed by professional mechanics. The advantage of a solid axle is better launches due to no hop. However, the trade-off is that you lose the ability of the IRS to react more predictably on uneven surfaces. Contrary to popular belief, an IRS doesn’t necessarily provide more grip, it is simply easier to drive in most cases over difficult surfaces.
Yes, Kenne Bell has a 2.2 L “Blowzilla” Screwcharger available for around $4,000. Nitrous Pete currently holds the record with this setup, making 728 RWHP on 25 pounds of boost with race gas (no nitrous). He currently has a best time of 10.06 @ 137.6 MPH with this setup and a preliminary tune.
Common consensus is yes, the Eaton is rated at 14,000 RPM for the maximum speed. With a 2.8” upper pulley, the blower should be spinning at around 18,000 RPMs at redline. However, the general thought is that the blower is not rated at 14,000 RPMs for reliability reasons, but for efficiency (the blower heats the intake too much at higher RPMs).
I am not aware that we have reached a limit. The internals have been tested thus far with up to 25 Lbs. However, on premium gas, the common limit is probably around 16 Lbs. without detonation.
There are several methods. If the detonation is severe, you
may hear a “knocking” or “pinging” sound, like marbles in a can.
You can also check the plugs for detonation. The signs of detonation in plugs
are detailed here:
http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark2.htm
However, the best method for detecting a lean condition that can cause
detonation is to use a Wideband A/F meter attached to a bung welded into the
exhaust before the catalytic converters during a dyno pull or hard driving.
Yes and no. The advantage of higher octane fuel is that the flash point of the fuel is moved up, meaning it requires more heat to prematurely ignite the charge, which can help if your car is detonating. Even if you have very slight detonation, higher octane gas may help, as the knock sensors on the car will register slight detonation, causing the computer to cut timing. Without detonation, the computer may return to normal timing, causing a gain in power. However, if your car is not detonating at all, higher octane gas will not improve your performance.
Saleen has a larger intercooler reservoir that they use on their supercharged cars that will fit the 03 Cobra, and includes fans. However, the performance gain of their system has yet to be proven on the Cobra. You can get their product here: http://www.saleen.com/
Yes, several vendors sell improved suspension components, including braces, shocks, and springs. Saleen, Steeda, and Amazon Racing all have suspension components for the Cobra.
Unfortunately, upgrading the brakes is not a simple proposition. When upgrading braking components, you need to ensure that the balance of the car under heavy braking is not affected, or it may actually handle worse than stock while braking. What has been tried on this subject is detailed in the following thread: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22369
Most chip tuners can remove the governor for you. The stock chip is limited to 155 MPH (which is around 160 MPH as indicated by the speedometer).
The only functional aerodynamic mods I am aware of at present are the Cobra R front splitter and rear wing, both of which provide additional downforce required if you will be exceeding 160 MPH. These parts can be purchased from several vendors.
A few options exist to cut the traction control off by
default. First, you may be able to get a chip to default the TC to off. Second,
if you are decent at electronics, you may be able to create your own circuit to
default the TC to off. This mod, made by Jumpinjackflash, is detailed here:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20710&highlight=traction+control
Finally, you can buy a completed circuit for this mod here:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20086
It appears that all dynos will differ slightly in reported output, due to differences in software revisions and calibration. However, in general, Dynojet dynos tend to dyno a bit higher than Mustang dynos.
SAE correction is generally preferred to STD correction. However, be aware that many magazines (including MM&FF) routinely use STD correction, as STD numbers are generally higher.
A chip is the only way I am aware of to change the stock shift indicator RPM.
So far, 7,000 RPMs seems to be the tested limit.
Preliminary tests seem to indicate that 500 RWHP is near the limit of the stock fuel system.
There are several theories on this. In some cases, belt slippage is an obvious culprit. However, other cases are not so clear-cut. It appears that even when no belt slip occurs, at high boost levels, boost may drop off at high RPMs. Based on what I know of the process, my personal belief is that the intake of the Cobra (TB, MAF, tubing, and filter/CAI) is too restrictive to provide enough air to sustain high RPM, high boost scenarios. However, at this point, this is just a theory. In either case, it appears that the current sustainable boost limit throughout the RPM range is around 14 PSI. New idler pulley kits are now available from several vendors to improve belt wrap and help eliminate slip.
Currently, many designs of wheels are available for the Cobra from a great many vendors. However, large sizes (such as 10.5+ widths) are a little more difficult to find. Cobra R wheels are available in 10.5” widths, but other than that, it appears that custom wheels (such as HRE) are required.
This depends upon your intended use of the DRs. Current opinion is that Nitto 555 DRs are best for all-around driving (including wet weather), while BFG DRs seem to grip better for pure track use.
DRs have a stronger sidewall and a smaller aspect ratio than pure slicks. In addition, DRs have some (if minimal) tread for water dispersion. Slicks will grip better than DRs on a track, but may also cause more breakage.
Actually, it appears that Lightning thermostats fit both the Cobra and Lightning. Hypertech produces a 160 and 170 degree thermostat, and Stant has a 170 and 180 degree thermostat available. Note that adding coolant back in after replacing the thermostat can be difficult, see 2.2.13.4 for more information.
Some posters have considered more advanced mods such as stroking, engine swaps, camshaft swaps, etc, but for now, there are no “common” beyond bolt-on mods.
The Autometer Lunar series seems to be a close match for the EL gauges in the Cobra, besides being a bit brighter than stock. You can see these here: http://www.autometer.com/hp/2002_catalog/103/103.html
Autometer has A-pillar and dash pods available for earlier model Mustangs that seem to fit the coupe with a little shaving here and there. The A pillar pod may or may not fit your coupe, depending on your run (later runs seem to have a slightly different A-pillar). If it does not fit, you can either shave it to fit, or purchase a stock A-pillar for a 2002 Mustang and replace your current pillar. Convertibles have a different pillar and will require more work. For the dash, the Autometer instrument bezel seems to fit well, but it does have an additional “hole” near the light stalk that will need to be covered. You can find these products here: http://www.autometer.com/hp/2001_catalog/gaugeworks/18.html
Opinions vary, but it appears that for critical monitoring or tuning, the Autometer A/F gauge, at least when used with the stock O2 sensors, is not very useful. However, for basic monitoring, it appears to perform adequately.
In a nutshell, a pyrometer measures the exhaust gas temperature. This, in many people’s opinion, is more useful for detecting detonation than an A/F gauge, as detonation will show up as a “spike” in temperature.
The short answer to this question is that you will need a
tach adapter, which needs to be wired into the coil packs. You can find more
information (including part #’s and instructions) here, thanks to Silver03Snake:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21505
In addition, if you are just looking for a shift light, there is one available
that works without a tach adapter. Information on this product can be found
here, thanks to Rbz:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22527
In general, it seems that for high horsepower applications (which applies to stock Cobra’s as well), upgrading the clutch quadrant, firewall adjuster, clutch cable, flywheel, and clutch assembly allows for faster, more direct shifts, more adjustment, and less slip. Information on this topic is available here, thanks to TooFast4U: http://www.superstallions.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1207
This is provided here: http://users.superford.org/metroplex/eecv.html
This is loaded question. Launching is highly dependant on variable conditions, such as track prep, tires, clutch condition, temperature, etc. In general, on street tires, there are two schools of thought on how to get the best times. The first is to use a standard street launch (off idle or slightly above) while simultaneously “rolling” on the throttle and slipping the clutch once traction is obtained. I have seen a best time of around 1.9 with this method. The second method is to rev the car to 3,000 or 3,500 RPM and quickly but carefully slip the clutch while rolling on the throttle in a controlled manner. Times as low as 1.6 on the stock Goodyear F1’s have been reported using this method. Be aware, however, that this method may cause premature clutch failure. On DR’s, a bit harder launch method can be used, though dumping the clutch will typically result in wheelspin/hop. With slicks, a dump at higher RPM (5,000 or so) might actually hook, but the chance of breakage will be more severe. The bottom line is that practice is the key.
Let off the throttle, and quickly. Wheel hop is the major cause of rear end component failure, and is much harder on the components than spinning. This is due to the rapid loading/unloading of the rear during a hop.
Practice. The first 60’ is, in many cases, where your E/T
will be primarily decided. The faster you can get through the first 60’ of
track, the lower your E/T.
Other than improving your launch, shifting quickly (speed shifting) or
performing full throttle shifts (power shifting) can also improve your E/T, but
they take extensive practice and can harm your transmission components.
Stock Cobra timeslips are all over the map, due to the
difficult nature of launching these beasts. In general, stock Cobras run between
12.5 and 13.8 in the 1/4 at 105 to 110 MPH, and between 7.9 and 8.7 in the 1/8
at 78 to 88 MPH.
The general consensus on this is that with DR or slicks, yes, but on stock tires, no. For stock tires, skip the water box and simply spin the tires long enough to clear any debris or water from the tires and expose fresh tread.
In a manual RWD car, burnouts can be a bit tricky. One
technique is to dump the clutch and very quickly hit the brakes. The other
technique is to “heel and toe” the brakes and gas with the right foot,
modulating the clutch with the left. Either way, the trick to a good,
non-damaging burnout is to keep the RPMs constant throughout the burnout.
A good 60’ time on street tires is anything below 2.0 seconds. With DRs, 1.8’s and lower should be attainable. With slicks and suspension modifications, short times as low as 1.5 seconds can be obtained with an excellent driver.
If you know how and can get traction, powershifting has the
ability to reduce your E/T’s by up to .3 seconds. However, the tradeoff is
accelerated component wear and tear, and the possibility of frying your clutch.
The stock shifter is a bit difficult to get used to due to
the placement of it and the difficulty of finding gears. Third and Fifth are
commonly missed gears. However, your clutch may also be part of the culprit,
especially if you miss the 1-2 shift. Ensure you have the clutch properly
adjusted before your run by following the procedure outlined here:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20714
If this procedure does not work, you may need to invest in an adjustable clutch
quadrant.
The best time/speed I am aware of so far was set at the NMRA Spring Ford Nationals in Bradenton Florida by “Nitrous” Pete Misinsky with a 10.06 at nearly 138 MPH.
The “pull” is typified by a constant pull to one side or
the other. This seems to commonly caused by misalignment. More information is
available here:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21364
The “vibe” seems to be caused (in most cases) by a bad driveshaft, which can eventually affect the rest of the rear end. The bad components cause a vibration in the car that cannot be felt, but makes the rear view mirror impossible to see out of at speeds of over 80 MPH. Occasionally, this may also be concurrent with a high-pitched “whine”. More information on this problem can be found here: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21915
The “clunk” is a moderate volume sound which typically occurs after depressing the accelerator following a coast. It is very noticeable in 6th gear in most cases. This seems to be caused by play in the driveline, but also seems to be fairly normal in Mustangs, and so far, is not a major concern.
Stalling is a common and potentially dangerous problem with the Cobras. Stalling tends to occur when you accelerate quickly while the engine is still warming up and then depress the clutch, especially when turning or braking. In most cases, the car immediately starts back up. One theory is that this is caused by the ECU not opening the throttle enough to compensate for the added load that the power steering and brakes apply to the engine. A fix has not yet been found. More information can be found in this thread: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22463
This problem sounds like a light ticking coming from the driver’s side valve cover, and is most noticeable when the car is warm. If you can hear the noise inside the car while idling, you most likely have the problem, otherwise, the ticking you hear is most likely injector noise (normal). The jury is still out regarding what is causing the noise. Ford supposedly has a SSM out on the tick calling for re-torqueing of the cams, which seems to resolve the problem in some cases. Others (this author included) have reported a diminishing or even elimination of the problem simply by changing to 5w30 synthetic oil. This thread has more information on the problem: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16940
Various problems have been reported concerning the quality of the Cobra’s paint. It seems that the paint was poorly/thinly applied in some cases, and light impacts seem to cause considerable chipping to the paint. Others have reported cracking after only a short period of time. The worst cases of this problem seem to have been repaired under warranty, but you mileage may vary. Many people are resorting to protection products using 3M Scotchcal film. These products have been discussed in the following thread: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18270
Many people (this author included) have reported poor fit and finish in the Cobra’s body panels. This can be easily seen in most cases by examining the seams of the body parts. In particular, the fitment of the rear quarter panels seem to be a tad off fairly commonly (you can see the panels rise above the surrounding bodywork). No news as of yet about fixing this problem under warranty.
There have been several reports of the Cobra being difficult to start when cold. Typically, this problem is described as the car taking a few seconds to fire up on a typical cold start. Many people, including myself, have this problem. There is no known solution at this time.
Some owners have reported a high-pitched squeal from the window seals when raising or lowering the windows. This seems to be caused by insufficient lubrication, and can be fixed following the procedures outlines in the following thread: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18320
Many owners (myself included) have reported various hoses hanging free that should have been tied off away from moving parts of the engine. Simply check and tie off as necessary. The most common hoses are the coolant hose (large hose with wire mesh covering running behind the radiator), and the oil cooler hose (runs from under the engine).
Some cars have experienced a melting of the honeycomb inside the cats due to a rich fuel mixture. This problem causes a rough idle when warm, a slight "miss" from idle to mid RPMs, "sluggish" acceleration and/or an occasional skunk smell. The solution appears to be replacing the cats. The following thread has more info on this problem: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17529
Many drivers have broken the stock gas pedal on their Cobras. This seems to be caused by the weak material the pedals are made out of (plastic with a metal insert) combined with a lead foot. Ford has been replacing these under warranty thus far. However, real metal pedals can be bought from several vendors, and would be a more permanent solution.
Many owners have trouble properly shifting their Cobras, due to a combination of the shifter position/travel and in some cases poor clutch adjustment. For more info on resolving these problems, see 4.9.
Many owners have complained of noise/vibration coming from the shifter and tranny. So far, some noise and vibration seems to be normal, and is attributable to the nature of the T-56 and the shift linkage. Replacing the stock shifter, however, will not resolve this problem, and will most likely make it worse (due to the removal of some of the bushings).
This problem seems to be due to poor clutch adjustment in most cases. See 4.9 for more information on resolving this problem.
Many owners have reported a considerable amount of brake dust from the rear brakes. This seems to be normal and mostly due to the high performance pads used on the rear.
Many owners have reported loose lug nuts (usually the anti-theft nuts) on their wheels at delivery. For this reason, it is suggested that you check the tension in the lugs shortly after your purchase.
Many owners feel that the seats are very tight upon initial delivery. However, the seats tend to break in with time, and become more comfortable.
This is a common, reoccurring problem, with the most common symptom involving the clutch “grabbing” very close to the floor. The solution is to use the adjustment procedure outlined in 4.9 fairly regularly. If the procedure does not resolve the problem, then the only lasting solution is to upgrade the clutch quadrant, cable, and firewall adjuster.
Most owners report a quite strong “skunk” smell in the car for the first 20-100 miles after purchase. This seems to be caused by oils burning off of the components. If yours persists longer than 100 miles, however, you may want to check for clogged cats, as listed in 5.11.
This is also a pretty common problem that most owners (including myself) have with the car. It typically occurs when turning the car sharply up or down an uneven slope, such as when entering a raised driveway. It sounds like a loud “pop” in the suspension when coming from the front, and a slightly softer “creak and pop” when coming from the rear. This is most likely caused by chassis flex, as some have reduced or eliminated the problem through the addition of stiffening components such as subframe connectors. More information on this problem is available in the following thread: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20308
Some owners have sections of the 3M double-sided tape used to mount the rear spoiler peeking out from the edges. The only known solution is to trim off the excess tape.
